Welcome to Welding Answers! We are a group of professionals in the welding industry. Our contributors include welding engineers, welding consultants, certified welding inspectors, welding sales experts and welders themselves.
In our day to day activities we are in constant contact with manufacturers that are doing their best to stay competitive and keep jobs in the United States. This is a tough task. We hope that this website can serve as a resource for those in need of help. Our intent is not to promote specific products or generate sales, it is simply to educate our readers and generate a large database of helpful articles related to welding. We plan to grow this database by taking time each week to write about our experiences from the week. This will mainly be comprised of questions we were asked or challenges we faced during the week.
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Gday Welding Answers, thanks for your work. I have a 45 tonne excavator bucket to repair; HAZ and hydrogen cracking. I can safely assume the material is Bisalloy 80 (although I’m told it could be T1)
material thickness varies from from 10mm to 25 mm.
My proposed weld procedure is:
Essab .9 Aristorod fillerwire 90/10 argon co2 gas.
Gouge out cracks and grind clean, preheat to 40C.
In thick material use double v prep butter up sides for better dilution and avoid introducing hydrogen from the unpreped side. Complete the weld with small multiple passes. When completing the other side gouge back the root to clean material and complete the weld with small multiple passes.
On thinner material with better access gouge and clean both sides, preheat to 40C weld with small multiple passes.
Could you please comment on this procedure.
Thanks
Steve
Hello Steve, your description of the procedures seem well thought out. The preheat for 10 to 25mm looks fine as well. Remember that arc gouging is a thermal process and can also have an effect on the microstructure. So make sure it gets done while the part is properly preheated.
This is a great site.
Thanks Chris! We are glad you find the content valuable.
Can I get details of TIG type welding courses in Germany ?Specifically I am in search of courses having 6 months to 1 year duration , to acquire profound welding skills .
Regards,
Chetan D .Pawar
Unfortunately we do not have any information on courses available in Germany. You can tried contacting the German Welding Society for information. Their home page is: https://www.die-verbindungs-spezialisten.de/index.php?id=dvs-home1
I am having a problem with barrels of wire!
The guys keep complaining that it pig tales when coming out of the gun.
But when I installed a new barrel and the roll is not taken off there is no problem with the one we have hooked up.
My question is if they cut and disconnect the barrel does it break the tension within the barrel with it untwisting with it being slack?
Hello Will,
If you cut the wire coming off the barrel it should not unwind like a spool would. However, the top few layers make loosen up a bit and when feeding again it could cause some issue. It is good practice to cut the wire and then bend it into an L-shape so it cannot go back into the barrel (assuming you have a top hat or other payoff device on top).
In regards to the pig tails. This can be caused by different things. If the winding of the barrel wasn’t done properly by the manufacturer you will get this effect, also called wire flip. Most often it is caused by your wire feeder. If you have a 4-roll wire feeder and the two sets of rolls are out of alignment this will introduce a twist on the wire. This twist will relieve itself either forward (at the gun) or backwards (at the barrel). If it goes forward the welder will notice this and will sometimes cause him or her to miss the joint momentarily. If it goes backwards it creates a tangle in the drum. This would be a type e-script tangle. Called that because the wire bends in the shape of the letter “e”and tangles.
A good troubleshooting step (assuming you have a 4-roll wire feeder) is to disengage the back two drive rolls. If the problem goes away then the problem is with the drive rolls. If it does not it may be the wire.
Also, if you are running long conduits from the drum to the feeder make sure there are not sharp bends, excessive amounts of bend or excessive length of conduit. Hope this helps.
Stumbled in here on a Bing search, and quite glad I did.
Splendid resource, and a positive place to be when you’re on the ‘net!